From duffels to bombers, coats and jackets have always been the cornerstones of subculture uniform. But they need to be about now, not then. There has to be more to exploring the classics than nostalgia and reminiscing about the past. Just like their soundtracks, what keeps these movements relevant today is an ability to adapt and appeal to new generations. Having the power to evolve, while their symbolism remains the same, is how the outerwear that defines them lives on.
Practicality is the theme that ties these iconic shapes together, reflecting the demands of their natural habitats. Pieces chosen on functional as much as aesthetic grounds. Quilted, nylon-shelled MA-1s for the cold damp warehouses reoccupied by acid house in mid-80s Britain. Compact packable cagoules for the cramped conditions of 70s football terraces. Breathable waterproof walking gear for the wet Manchester backdrop to 90s baggy. Smart coats and jackets that remained on indoors at the pubs, clubs and parties where young men from these scenes came together.